Wednesday, September 4, 2013

The best things in life come in 3s

BWOF 07-2009 102
I have talked about multiples several times and I'm going to start a short walk-through of the process.
BWOF 07-2009 102
It helps break the monotony of those necessary things that don't get the sewing spidey sense tingling, but they keep me decent under those cute tops and jackets.  A good pair of dress pants (out of good fabric) made with good (1 1/2") seam allowances will last 3 or 4 years. These are from 2009 and were also made in three.

For me, what makes the longevity of the good fabric vs. cheap is how well it recovers from a seam.  If it recovers well, you can take in and let out or replace the lining as often as you need without leaving that cheesy perforated line or pressed fold.  I also look for colors in the same color family so I don't have to change thread.

The given here is that you have to start with a TNT, mine is my evolved BWOF 7-2009.  I size up for my 44" hips and 36" waist, but other than that it really works.

Pin line marking shortest end
The only extra step that you must remember when laying out the fabric is to mark the end of the shortest piece.  If you don't do this you may end up losing and entire pair.  when you layout one pair at a time, you can just feel where the other layer ends, but I have always found it necessary when laying out several garments at once.
Oh yeah, I am shortening the front crotch length by about half an inch.  Yes, I did press it before cutting.

 Since there wasn't a lining pattern, and the pockets are cut-on with L-shaped pockets, the lining pattern must include both the upper front piece and the pants front.  I simply laid the upper front (pocket piece) over the pants front when I cut across the top of the lining.  As soon as you get all the pieces cut you are ready to start the fun part.

For me the key to saving time with mass production is to assemble in short steps and complete the same step for all pairs before moving on to the next step.  Right now I have stitched the back dart and started the front pockets.  After the front pockets, you sew the fly's, then its like you are almost done!

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